04 May 2016

Top Ten Myths of Tree Care

Here Are the Most Common Myths About Tree Care & Tree Removal


Should you prune your trees in the spring? How deep must fertilizer be applied to reach the roots of your trees? Which species of trees should be topped to keep them from falling on your house? Most homeowners treasure the trees on their property but know little about how to care for them. Much of what you may have heard about tree care is actually incorrect, based on myths and misconceptions. Here are the Top 10 myths of tree care:

MYTH #1: When a tree is planted it should be securely staked to ensure the development of a stable root system and a strong trunk. Although it is sometimes necessary to stake trees to keep them upright and allow establishment, there are some adverse effects of staking. Compared to staked trees, unstaked trees tend to develop a more extensive root system and better trunk taper. Allowing a small amount of movement can help root and trunk development. Of course, the worst effect of staking is the possibility of trunk damage from the staking wires or ties. Staking materials usually should be removed after one year to avoid “girdling” the tree.

MYTH #2: Newly planted trees should have their trunks wrapped with tree wrap to prevent sunscald and insect entry. Studies using most common tree wraps have shown that they do not prevent extreme fluctuations in temperature on the bark. In some cases, the temperature extremes are worse. Also, tree wraps have proven quite ineffective in preventing insect entry. In fact, some insects like to burrow under it.

MYTH #3: Trees should be pruned back heavily when they are planted to compensate for the loss of roots.Tree establishment is best with unpruned trees. Although pruning the top can reduce the amount of water that evaporates from the leaves, the tree needs a full crown to produce the much-needed food and the plant hormones that induce root growth. The tree will develop a stronger, more extensive root system if it has a fuller crown. Limit pruning at the time of planting to structural training and the removal of damaged branches.

MYTH #4: When removing a branch from a tree, the final cut should be flush with the stem to optimize healing. First of all, trees don’t “heal” in the sense that wounds on people heal. Our bodies regenerate tissues in much the same form of the tissues that were removed (to a limited extent). Trees compartmentalize wounds, generating woundwood over the wounded area. Flush cutting removes the “branch collar,” creating a larger wound than if the branch were removed outside the collar. Also, it is likely that some of the parent branch tissue will be removed. The spread of decay inside the tree is greater with flush cuts.

MYTH #5: Pruning wounds greater than three inches in diameter should be painted with a wound dressing. Research has shown that the common wound dressings do not inhibit decay, do not prevent insect entry, and do not bring about faster wound closure. In fact, many of the commonly used dressings slow wound closure.

MYTH #6: Certain fast-growing, weak-wooded trees, such as silver maple and Siberian elm, should be “topped” to make them less hazardous in the landscape.While topping these trees may reduce the potential hazard at first, they will likely be more dangerous in the future. Topping stimulates growth of twigs below the cuts. Growth of many vigorous shoots leads to branches with weak attachments. Also, decay spreads inside the stubs and branches that were topped. Within two to five years after topping, the tree will have regained its height, but will be more hazardous than before the topping. Besides, topping makes trees ugly. Alternatives to topping include thinning, cabling, or removal and replacement with a more suitable species.

MYTH #7: If certain species of trees are pruned early in the spring, they will “bleed,” stressing the tree and causing health problems. True, some trees such as maples and birches will “bleed” or lose sap from pruning cuts made early in the spring. This bleeding does not hurt the tree, and the loss of sap is inconsequential. With a few exceptions, most routine pruning can be done any time of year. The worst time is just as the tree has leafed out in the spring. The best time is when the tree is dormant. To maximize flowering for the following year, prune just after bloom this year.

MYTH #8: The root system of a tree is a mirror image of the top. Many people envision a large, branching taproot growing deep into the soil. Actually, taproots are very uncommon in mature trees. If taproots do develop, they usually will be forced into horizontal growth when they encounter hard subsoils beneath the surface. The entire root systems of most trees can be found within three feet of soil. The spread of the root system however, can be very extensive, often extending two to thre times the spread of the crown.

MYTH #9: Trees require “deep root fertilization” to reach their root system. In most U.S. soils, the vast majority of trees’ fibrous, absorbing roots are in the top eight inches of soil. Roots grow where conditions are best for root growth, where water and oxygen are available. When we place fertilizer twelve to eighteen inches deep in the soil, we are putting it too deep.

MYTH #10: When a tree has lost a significant portion of its root system such as in construction damage, the crown should be cut back to compensate for root loss. While this is a common recommendation, research has not supported it. Following root loss, unpruned trees seem to respond better than pruned trees. Obviously, any removal of branches will reduce the capacity of the tree to produce food in the leaves. Although the tree will probably lose some branches as a result of the root damage (if the tree survives the trauma), it is best to let the tree decide which ones. Thus, pruning should be limited to hazard reduction at first. Later, after the tree has responded to the damage, further pruning would be in order.

Via TreesAreGood.com

 

04 May 2016

8 Michigan Winter Tree Care Tips

Tree Care Tips for the Michigan Wintertime

 By Jeff Locke

Although trees are dormant during winter, they’re not protected from the elements like a hibernating animal that holes up in a snug spot. Trees experience the raw intensity of the cold season.

Wintry conditions can be stressful on trees, especially newly planted or young trees that lack mature defense mechanisms such as a wide, spreading root system or thick bark. Learn how to protect trees and help them survive the winter season and thrive in years to come.

Tip #1 – Mulch

 

In late fall to early winter, add a thin layer (no more than 2 inches) of organic mulch beneath your tree’s drip line. Mulch insulates soil and tree roots against temperature extremes and slows water loss from soil. Don’t pile mulch directly against the tree trunk. Wait to mulch until the ground freezes to prevent mice from making your mulch their winter quarters.

Tip #2 -Water

Keep trees, especially newly planted ones, well watered through fall – until the ground freezes. Before freezing temperatures, remove irrigation bags surrounding the tree trunk. If a warm spell thaws trees and soil, water newly planted trees, especially if your region is in the midst of a prolonged drought.

Tip #3 – Spray

Winter sun and wind create drying conditions for broadleaf evergreens, such as pieris, rhododendron or mountain laurel. Spray an anti-desiccant, which covers leaves with a waxy coating, to reduce moisture loss.

Tip #4 – Wrap

When winter sun thaws a tree trunk by day and cold night air freezes it, bark cells can rupture, creating cracks in the trunk. This condition is called sunscald. To protect trees, cover trunks with crepe paper tree wrap. Working from the bottom, wrap the trunk, overlapping layers by one-third. Stop wrapping just above lowest branches. Remove the wrap in spring. You can also paint the tree trunk white or wrap it with a white plastic rabbit guard. Sunscald occurs most often on trees planted on west or south sides of buildings.

Tip #5 – Protect

Rabbits and voles love to gnaw the bark on young trees. Typically they’ll consume outer and inner bark, exposing inner wood. If chewing damage occurs halfway around the trunk, the tree likely won’t survive. Block rodents by wrapping trunks with plastic tree guards, starting at the bottom and working upward. Be sure to wrap past the snow line. Remove the wrap in spring. Another option is to cage trunks with chicken wire, which will also prevent deer from rubbing. Once bark matures and develops fissures, the small critters usually stop chewing.

Tip #6 – Melt

Keep rock salt (sodium chloride) away from trees. Rock salt interferes with roots’ ability to absorb water, oxygen and nutrients. Choose ice melt products containing calcium, potassium or magnesium chloride.

Tip #7 – Clear

Accumulating snow on tree branches can break them. To remove snow, gently push it off limbs using upward movements. Don’t try to break ice off branches. Instead, use a garden hose connected to a hot water faucet, but take care not to burn the plant.

Tip #8 – Prune

Winter provides a great opportunity for inspecting and pruning trees. You can easily see the tree’s structure and identify problem branches. If trees overhang perennial or vegetable gardens, pruning those trees in winter won’t damage your plantings. Pruning during dormancy can also prevent disease spread, since disease organisms are also dormant. Learn more about how to inspect trees for potential hazards, as well as when to prune trees and how to prune trees.

 

04 May 2016

5 Reasons Why Topping Trees is Not a Good Idea

So is Topping Trees That Bad?

Topping is perhaps the most harmful tree pruning practice known. Yet, despite more than 25 years of literature and seminars explaining its harmful effects, topping remains a common practice. This article explains why topping is not an acceptable pruning technique.

 

What Does It Mean to “Top” a Tree?

Topping is the indiscriminate cutting of tree branches to stubs or lateral branches that are not large enough to assume the terminal role. Other names for topping include “heading,” “tipping,” “hat-racking,” and “rounding over.”

The most common reason given for topping is to reduce the size of a tree. Home owners often feel that their trees have become too large for their property. People fear that tall trees may pose a hazard. Topping, however, is not a viable method of height reduction and certainly does not reduce the hazard. In fact, topping will make a tree more hazardous in the long term.

Topping Stresses Trees Out!

Topping often removes 50 to 100 percent of the leaf-bearing crown of a tree. Because leaves are the food factories of a tree, removing them can temporarily starve a tree. The severity of the pruning triggers a sort of survival mechanism. The tree activates latent buds, forcing the rapid growth of multiple shoots below each cut. The tree needs to put out a new crop of leaves as soon as possible. If a tree does not have the stored energy reserves to do so, it will be seriously weakened and may die.

A stressed tree is more vulnerable to insect and disease infestations. Large, open pruning wounds expose the sapwood and heartwood to attacks. The tree may lack sufficient energy to chemically defend the wounds against invasion, and some insects are actually attracted to the chemical signals trees release.

Topping Causes Major Decay

The preferred location to make a pruning cut is just beyond the branch collar at the branch’s point of attachment. The tree is biologically equipped to close such a wound, provided the tree is healthy enough and the wound is not too large. Cuts made along a limb between lateral branches create stubs with wounds that the tree may not be able to close. The exposed wood tissues begin to decay. Normally, a tree will “wall off,” or compartmentalize, the decaying tissues, but few trees can defend the multiple severe wounds caused by topping. The decay organisms are given a free path to move down through the branches.

Topping Can Cause Sunburn

Branches within a tree’s crown produce thousands of leaves to absorb sunlight. When the leaves are removed, the remaining branches and trunk are suddenly exposed to high levels of light and heat. The result may be sunburn of the tissues beneath the bark, which can lead to cankers, bark splitting, and death of some branches.

Topping Makes Trees Ugly and Unnatural Looking

The natural branching structure of a tree is a biological wonder. Trees form a variety of shapes and growth habits, all with the same goal of presenting their leaves to the sun. Topping removes the ends of the branches, often leaving ugly stubs. Topping destroys the natural form of a tree.

Without leaves (up to 6 months of the year in temperate climates), a topped tree appears disfigured and mutilated. With leaves, it is a dense ball of foliage, lacking its simple grace. A tree that has been topped can never fully regain its natural form.

Topping is Expensive

The cost of topping a tree is not limited to what the perpetrator is paid. If the tree survives, it will require pruning again within a few years. It will either need to be reduced again or storm damage will have to be cleaned up. If the tree dies, it will have to be removed.

Topping is a high-maintenance pruning practice, with some hidden costs. One is the reduction in property value. Healthy, well-maintained trees can add 10 to 20 percent to the value of a property. Disfigured, topped trees are considered an impending expense.

Another possible cost of topped trees is potential liability. Topped trees are prone to breaking and can be hazardous. Because topping is considered an unacceptable pruning practice, any damage caused by branch failure of a topped tree may lead to a finding of negligence in a court of law.

 

Via TreesAreGood

 

04 May 2016

Novi Tree Removal Service by Infinity Tree Company

Press Release by Jeff Locke

With over 20 years of Michigan tree removal & tree trimming experience, Infinity Tree & Outdoor Services, LLC provides professional tree services in Novi, Michigan and all surrounding cities throughout the metro Detroit area. Our highly trained crews create a beautiful, healthy, and safe outdoor environment.

 

novi tree removal

 

We are happy to be in Novi, Michigan!

We are happy to announce that Infinity Tree & Outdoor Services, LLC in now servicing the Novi, Michigan area on a daily basis. We provide expert tree trimming and tree removal at competitive prices around our customer’s schedules. If you live in Novi and you are in need of tree removal, make sure that you call us for a free estimate! We are always happy to accommodate our customers. If you have to work at 8:00 AM, we can be there at 6:45 to give you a quote. It’s never too early or too late for us. We provide quotes around the clock.

novi tree service

 

Let the experts at Infinity Tree Service remove your trees and shrubs safe and affordably today! We are fully insured for your protection for over $1 million. We take pride in providing quality customer service and making your property look beautiful. Feel free to check out our business reviews on Google, Yelp.com, and Facebook. We have a great reputation because we are a great company. We wouldn’t have it any other way.

 

(248) 305-0519

Call today to schedule a free estimate!

 

04 May 2016

Press Release – Infinity Tree Company is Now Servicing Northville, MI

Northville Tree Removal Experts

Let the tree removal experts at Infinity Tree Service remove any dangerous or unappealing tree in your Northville neighborhood today. We are off to a great Summer 2014 season and we will be in Northville every day. This means we can quote around your schedule. We are early risers and start every morning at 6:30 AM.

 

Call us today at (248) 305-0519 to schedule Northville tree removal service. We are a full-service tree removal company in West Bloomfield and we service the entire Metro Detroit area.

04 May 2016

Prior to Hiring a Michigan Tree Service, Read This…

By Jeff Locke

michigan tree service
Jeff Locke of Infinity Tree & Outdoor Services has over 20 years of experience removing trees in Michigan.

Tree removal is a dangerous and difficult business. It is ranked as one of the most dangerous jobs in the United States. Before you hire just anyone to trim or remove your trees, here are a few things that you should always consider.

 

 

1. Check into the company’s insurance. 

A company without adequate insurance coverage is an establishment that you don’t want working anywhere near your home. You want to ensure that the company has liability insurance and worker’s compensation insurance. Liability insurance guarantees that if the company causes damage to your home or possessions, it covers the expenses. Worker’s compensation insurance protects both you and the company’s employees by covering any injury that an employee sustains while working on your property. Additionally, it protects you from a lawsuit if anything should happen on your property.

2. Ask for references. 

This is just good common sense. Don’t hesitate to ask the company for referrals from customers who had similar work done. You’re entitled to know what to expect and how other people felt about the services provided. Remember, the company is going to be doing work that, if done improperly, could potentially cause a heavy limb to fall on your house. For the best referrals, don’t forget to check Angie’s List for member reviews and ratings.

3. Get an estimate. 

Always get an estimate on the job and be sure that it’s in print. If a tree service is even slightly hesitant about this, it may mean that the company is out to make a quick buck at your expense and may charge you additional fees for services that you didn’t want.

4. Look into what the company charges. 

Evaluate how the company is going to charge you for the services performed. For instance, is the company going to charge an added fee for stump grinding, or is there one flat fee for the entire project?

5. Compare the services offered. 

Although stump grinding may be extra, some companies don’t provide this service at all if it doesn’t have the necessary equipment. Additionally, if the company doesn’t have access to a crane, it may not be able to do work above a certain height. This is especially important if tall trees populate your property.

6. Employee training.

Ask about the employees’ backgrounds. You want a company that hires workers with many years of experience performing this type of service. Inquire if there is an arborist on staff.

 

04 May 2016

How To Care For Mature Trees

Mature trees provide shade and beauty and other benefits to the urban environment. They require different treatment than young trees, but still need regular watering, pruning, disease prevention and protection.

Mature trees grow more slowly than new trees and are very sensitive to their surrounding environment. If older trees are damaged or left with large pruning wounds, they regrow wood slowly and are more susceptible to disease.

If watered improperly or growing in poor soil conditions, the tree’s health will start to decline. The tree may be stressed for a long period of time before it shows significant symptoms such as leaf or branch drop. Watch trees carefully for foliage changes to catch problems early and begin care and treatment.

Take these steps to give your mature tree the best chance of thriving:

1. Watering

The number one thing you can do for mature tree health is to make sure that the amount of water supplied is appropriate to your tree. For most mature trees, regular monthly deep watering is recommended in the absence of soaking rain.

2. Pruning

Mature trees need to be pruned regularly to remove dead or diseased wood and to remove excessive weight from the ends of branches. The process called “end-weight reduction” will reduce the likelihood of branch breakage and hazards. Make sure a trained professional prunes your tree. Inadequate pruning compromises the health of trees. Whatever you do, avoid “topping” your tree — this harmful practice ruins the tree’s natural structure, starves the tree by removing a high percentage of food-producing leaves, creates openings for disease, and initiates the tree’s eventual demise.

3. Disease and other problems

Learn about tree pests and diseases that may affect your tree.  If you suspect disease, consult a tree care professional. They can also inspect the tree for weak branch attachments and periodically check your tree for safety. Watch trees carefully for foliage changes to catch problems early and begin care and treatment

 

Caring for Mature Native Oak Trees

Native oaks require special attention because their roots share soil space with the Oak Root Fungus which specializes in living off of oak and other woody roots. Under natural California conditions, this fungus (Armillaria) is dormant during the hot, dry summer, and comes to life only with the winter rains.

Our native oaks – Valley Oak, Coast Live Oak and Blue Oak – do not require and do not tolerateirrigation in the dry months. If irrigation is applied near their trunk during the dry season, the Armillaria fungus will grow due to the combination of warmth and moisture. As the tree matures, continued watering around the trunk maintains the fungus infestation, which in turn will cause the tree to die, or tip over from too few roots to anchor its top weight.

There are four main ways to protect your native oaks from disease:

1. Remove competing plants, including ivy and lawn

These plants can hide defects such as areas of decay and can trap moisture around the root crown, creating the perfect environment for fungus. Garbage collects under ivy and it creates a breeding ground for rats. Ideally all competing plants within the drip line will be removed. Laying mulch around the trunk (but leaving the root crown exposed) can help keep ivy and other plants from returning.

 

How to remove ivy:

The method Canopy recommends is to remove as much of the ivy as you can by hand, including the roots. Ivy that is climbing up a tree should first be cleared away from the base of the trunk.  Then, the ivy should be cut back 2-3 feet around the base of the tree. Pulling down the ivy higher up can damage the tree’s bark. Once detached from the roots, the ivy will die and can then be removed.

You will most likely not kill all of the ivy in this way and some of it will come back. Often you will have an 80% success rate the first time and 20% will return. Keep at it — in the end you will triumph.

If you choose to use a chemical weed killer to speed up the ivy removal process, locate any large main ivy roots. Cut the ivy root cleanly so that there is a fresh wound above the soil. Immediately paint a strong concentrate of Glyphosate, also sold as Roundup, or Kleenup. The Glyphosate will move through the ivy’s system and kill some of the plant without hurting the tree or surrounding plants.

2. Remove built-up soil from around the root crown

Root crown fungus growth slows down when the fungus is exposed to air. By ensuring the root crown is dry and exposed to air, you will prolong the life of your tree. Removing dirt until you can see the root crown is called “root crown excavation”. It may expose the fungus and will remove moisture from the area.
A properly exposed root crown should look like the one in this photograph.

 

 

 

 

3. Water properly

The area within 10 feet (or more) of the trunk of a native oak should remain undisturbed and clear of any vegetation and irrigation. Ideally no irrigation should be applied and no lawn installed in the area extending from the base of the trunk out to the tree’s dripline. It’s best to remove existing lawn inside the drip line; this will reduce competition from other plants and help eliminate excess moisture. Do not water or allow water to collect around the root flare. Do not allow sprinklers to spray on the trunk.

4. Have your tree evaluated for root crown infection

An tree care professional should be consulted if you see signs of decay in the wood or clusters of mushrooms growing from or next to the trunk.

04 May 2016

10 Best Trees You Should Plant

I’ve picked ten best trees readily available for planting in your yard. Consider these thebest trees to plant in a large yard or landscape. For a smaller yard you might be better served using these perfectly beautiful smaller trees.

Although there are dozens of great trees from which to pick, I have taken some of the subjectivity out to give you reasonable choices. I am certain any one of these ten trees will earn itself a place of pride in your yard. Still, you should pay close attention to each tree’s characteristics and use my information to make your final selection.

The Most Popular Trees

I’ve reviewed the popular literature for you, polled my About Forestry forum and the Internet for the most popular trees and compiled these frequently requested trees to use as a starting place. By further studying the commercial appeal of each of these individual species and taking into account horticulturists’ praise I selected my ten best.

One other criterion I set is, the tree has to be native to North America with large ranges and do well in and around those ranges. Exotics tend to have two-edged problems: they either express later health problems (insects, disease, brittle) or quickly become a green scourge that threatens native trees and plants. Sometimes they have both problems. These trees become very large and needs a large yard or landscape. Try my Best 10 Small Trees for a small yard.

I also provide A Guide to Tree Planting to help you after you’ve selected your tree. You might want to find out how much you really know about planting and taking care of your tree through that first critical year. Take my Wellness Quiz.

My Best Tree Picks

All of the trees selected here have been screened to make a great yard tree within the limits of their potential habit and growth constraints. I think you will be pleased and satisfied when planting each and every one of these trees:

No Tree Is Perfect

Remember, all yard trees can have both good and bad characteristics. It is a rare tree that will satisfy your needs throughout its entire life span on a given site. A tree can outgrow its original purpose very quickly or grow into its intended purpose very slowly. Understanding this concept is the key to proper tree planting in your yard.

It is extremely important you understand that your tree needs early attention after planting and correct care and attention as it matures. You can permanently harm your tree by incorrect placement and improper care.

04 May 2016

Milford MI Tree Service

Milford Tree Service by Infinity Tree & Outdoor Services

 

 

Tree Removal Service in Milford, Michigan

  • Experienced tree removal pros
  • Tree service – branch cutting, safety
  • Fully licensed & insured
  • Get a free estimate today!

Need to remove, trim or assess the safety of trees on your Milford, MI property? Call Infinity Tree & Outdoor Services and get a free work estimate! We have been doing tree removals in Michigan for decades, and have happy customers all around the state!